Many thanks to Sheryl Hamilton, former owner of "The Family Jools" for creating this wonderful resource page!

SHERMAN JEWELRY

COMMON STYLES, COLORS & CHARACTERISTICS

I. COMPONENTS
A) Stones & beads

- Only first quality Swarovski stones and crystal beads are found in Sherman jewelry.  Stones and crystals with Aurora Borealis coatings were very popular!
- Navettes and long marquise cut stones seemed to be a favorite stone shape ~ very seldom will you see a piece without navettes and/or marquise cut stones somewhere in the design.
- Round stones included both brilliant cut and chatons. Baguettes were used, but not as commonly as other stone shapes.
- Unfoiled stones in open settings are rare but not totally unheard of. Unfaceted cabochons (like those in the pink "footed" brooch below) are also quite rare.

- I don't believe I've ever seen Sherman jewelry with glued-in stones; all are prong-set. The blue star flower above is an example of Tiffany/ French prongs used occasionally in Sherman jewelry.

- Apparently Swarovski would produce custom stones for Sherman, including some that are "reverse foiled".  I'm not certain what this process involved, but the end result was a much sparklier stone with a prism-like appearance and multiple color flashes.

B) Findings
1. Earrings

Sherman earrings are often right and left facing, and most are clipbacks (3 of  Sherman's clip findings are shown below).  The first one (with the scalloped edge & 3 holes) is the most common one (Pat #156452).   The middle one is usually found on longer, dangly (articulated) earring styles, and the third one sometimes found on beaded earrings. Note the various marks (block & script).  There may well be other types of earring findings too.

...from Terry Delany, author of an as-yet-unpublished book on Sherman Jewelry):
"I have just found that Continental (in their top line that copied Sherman) used the same earring backs so I am now rethinking a lot of the unsigned Sherman. It may well have been Continental....."

Sherman signature on the side of a different style clipback finding (above).  Wonder how many of these I've missed!?

2. Bracelets

Bracelets are usually equipped with safety chains and "hidden" clasps, and the signature is usually stamped on the bottom of the clasp (but not always).  Note the attention to detail on the top bracelet clasp -- the diagonal AB stones are "split" on either side of the clasp so as not to break the "ribbon" effect.

3. Necklaces

Most but not all Sherman necklaces are equipped with rhinestone & chain extenders such as those shown below.  Signature plates are sometimes under the last navette ... so if the 'dangle' is missing, your necklace will very likely be 'unsigned'.

Necklaces were generally quite short - often between 13-1/2" and 17" in length.  They usually had small ridged hooks, although longer non-adjustable necklaces often fastened with 'hidden clasps' like the bracelets above.

Also note the multi-pronged stone cup in the rhinestone chain; some stones were set this way.

A Note on "Other Clasps" (bracelet & necklace)
Apparently Sherman, for a very short time,  used a "cheaper clasp" similar to the one pictured below.  According to Terry Delany, most of the ones she has seen like this were signed.   The one in the photo is not.   Perhaps this clasp was used by Sherman on the pieces he made for Eaton's and Birks - ??  Maybe it is simply a 'generic clasp' available to and used by other makers as well - ??  Perhaps we will never know.

4. Crystal Bead Jewelry

Findings on Sherman beaded jewelry are fairly distinctive, which is good, because much of this style jewelry is unsigned.  Necklace connectors usually have rhinestones, sometimes in a flower motif (these are the only instances where I have seen glued-in stones).

Memory wire bracelets almost always have ornate spacer bars like the one in my photo.  Beaded 'waterfall' brooches were a popular Sherman design and all that I've seen are hand-wired onto the same filigree.  I've also seen a couple pieces of crystal "disk" jewelry, like the red demi parure below.  Crystals were always Swarovski, and almost always with an AB or mirror finish.

C) Plating

The plating on most Sherman jewelry is quite heavy and highly polished.  Rhodium plating is the most common, although japanned metal and gold-plated settings were also used.  The metal on most of the rhodium-plated pieces I've seen has been in virtually "new" condition, whereas japanned and gold plated settings tend to show their age a bit more.

II. STYLES & MOTIFS                     Back to top

Flower motifs were, by far, the most common Sherman design element. Leaf-shaped pins and earrings were also popular, as well as "swirls", wreaths, feathers and "pinwheels".

"Stone clusters" (such as the one shown at the top of the AB brooch below) are, I believe, unique to Sherman jewelry.

Sherman figurals are fairly rare, although Terry Delany tells me they were very popular in their day, and that there was actually a fairly extensive variety (owl, bicycle, two different fruit baskets, two different birds, two different cats, hearts, bows, Christmas tree, etc).

Flower Basket

~ From Roberta Peach's Collection (below) ~

III. COLORS & COLOR COMBINATIONS                     Back to top

Multi-color combinations are not nearly as common in Sherman jewelry as monochromatic color schemes (Canadian conservativism at its best!).  Siam Red, Fuchsia, Rose, Peridot, Emerald, Sapphire, Black and Topaz, as well clear and Crystal Aurora were all used extensively in Sherman jewelry. Another common color was one I call "Champagne" -- a pretty beige color which Diane Hanselman tells me is Light Colorado Topaz.  Olivine, jonquil, teal and Montana blue were also popular.

Jewelry with purple stones (Amethyst, Cardinal) is fairly difficult to come by, although Alexandrite Dichroic crystals (color change from lavender to blue) are often found.  I have had crystal bead jewelry in red, black, silver (crystal comet argent light), clear/AB, and pink.  The photos below show some of the more unusual Sherman combinations.

Japanned red, purples and fuchsias are by far the most desirable to collectors.

Very unusual combination of opaque apple green, clear and rose/ pink stones in a "Christmas" wreath design

IV. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS                     Back to top

Hook & eye construction is found on some Sherman jewelry -- exactly the same type found on Schreiner pieces. The technique was used to join layered components without soldering them together.

Sherman also used good quality Swarovski rhinestone chain in his pieces -- you can always tell by the amount of 'gap' between the stone-sets.  The closer the stones, the better the chain.

Generally speaking, clasps, pinstems, earring backs & findings were all above average quality and the pieces are fairly "weighty".  Many findings were made by a company named Ballou.

Layering was also a popular technique with Sherman, particularly in the more intricate and elaborate pieces.

The distinctive style of the topaz brooch below has a nickname among Canadian dealers -- it is called a "titty" pin, for obvious reasons.  I believe this style comes in 3 sizes; the largest is massive ~ about 3" across if memory serves.  Another observation:  Topaz stones are often paired with 'champagne' and these bluish/purple/green aurora stones.

Also note the tell-tale 'flower cluster' caps on the top of both these brooches.

I have seen pieces by Weiss, Continental and Artistic that are the same as or very similar to Sherman designs. The Artistic brooch below is a Sherman design apparently copied by a Sherman foreman, then later manufactured by Artistic:

It is interesting to note that the 'stone cluster' cap in the center of the Artistic brooch has far fewer stones in it than is typical in Sherman clusters.

V. SIGNATURE                     Back to top

If memory serves, the oval nameplate is found on earlier pieces (1950s) while the square plate was introduced in the 1960s.
   x

Sherman Jewelry was sold through independent jewelery stores and large department stores such as Eaton's and Birk's Jewelry. In many cases, the pieces were in a box or on a card marked "Jewels of Elegance". Some were identified only with a paper tag:

The pink necklace is unsigned except for the original metal string tag.  It was purchased by Joanne Brennan of Ottawa from the original owner who bought many Sherman pieces from Birks back in the 50's/60's.  The price, which is hard to read in my photo, is $3.00 !!

Perhaps the unsigned pieces we see today are those where the tag, card or box has been discarded.  I have personally bought Sherman sets from the original owners where only one or two pieces of the set are signed.  Since set pieces often became separated over the years, this too would explain why unsigned Sherman pieces continue to surface.

VI. MORE EXAMPLES - Bracelets                      Back to top

Wide Rigid Cuff Bracelets ~ the ultimate Sherman collectible

This unusual amethyst & lilac bracelet set was spotted on Jan Gaughan's website, Eclectic Vintage.

Teal bracelet & brooches (Blue Zircon Swarovski stones) - Brenda Baceda, Victoria BC

Necklaces / Sets / Parures                     Back to top

(Diane H has this green set in topaz & clear, marked Kramer NY!)

Large sapphire blue and clear rhinestone pendant, unsigned except for the Sherman plate on the silvertone chain.  Earrings also unsigned but have the usual patent number. (For me, the jury is out as to whether the pendant is Sherman -- the construction is not exactly typical). Photo courtesy of Monique Buckmaster of Winnipeg, verucaantiques on eBay.

VI. MORE EXAMPLES - Brooches / Demi Parures                                   Back to top
  
 

Earrings                      Back to top

< 3-1/2" long!

This is the first & only pair of REVERSIBLE Sherman Hoop Earrings I've ever seen.

 

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The Personal Collection of Brenda Baceda                      Back to top
  
 

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